What does Centella Derivatives (Cica) do?#
A targeted serum featuring madecassoside, a purified compound from Centella Asiatica, that helps visibly calm redness and supports a smoother, more comfortable-looking complexion.
- Helps reduce the appearance of redness for a visibly calmer complexion
- Supports a comfortable, well-conditioned skin surface
- Promotes a smoother, more even-looking skin tone
How it works
Madecassoside is a purified active compound from Centella Asiatica (CICA). Unlike whole plant extracts, it delivers a concentrated, standardized dose. It helps skin look calmer and more comfortable, promoting a more even, well-hydrated-looking appearance.
How to use Centella Derivatives (Cica)#
- Morning or evening, or both. It is one of the gentlest things on this list and needs no building up.
- In routine order: a serum goes on after cleansing and toning, a cream goes on last.
- Across the whole face. Nothing here needs to be spaced away from a retinoid or an exfoliating acid.
- It suits skin that is looking flushed after a facial, a laser session or a stretch of harsh weather — that is the setting most of the research was done in.
- Keep it out of your eyes, and if you have reacted to fragranced or plant-based skincare before, patch test before first use.
- There is no settling-in period to expect. If it stings or reddens, stop and read the rest of the ingredient list — fragrance is the usual cause.
Discontinue use if unexpected discomfort occurs.
Forms you will see it in
Madecassoside soothing serum
- Where it goes
- Before moisturizer, morning or evening
- How often
- Daily
- Strength
- Gentle
- Sun sensitivity
- None
Madecassoside soothing cream
- Where it goes
- As your moisturizer, morning or evening
- How often
- Daily
- Strength
- Gentle
- Sun sensitivity
- None
Using Centella Derivatives (Cica) with other ingredients
Pairs well with Centella Derivatives (Cica)
Niacinamide
Works well togetherComplementary calming approaches for a visibly soothed complexion.
Panthenol (B5)
Works well togetherBoth promote a comfortable, healthier-looking complexion.
What not to use with Centella Derivatives (Cica)
Nothing flagged. None of the ingredients this wiki covers needs to be kept apart from Centella Derivatives (Cica) — check the label of anything not covered here.
Who should avoid Centella Derivatives (Cica)?#
Six situations change whether Centella Derivatives (Cica) suits your skin right now. Each one is either a reason to skip it, a reason to go slowly, or nothing to watch for.
- Maternity & Nursing
- Go slowly
- Dry or Itchy Patches
- Go slowly
- Fragile or Sensitive
- No caution
- Recent Facial or Laser
- No caution
- Prone to Redness
- No caution
- Recent Shave or Wax
- No caution
Maternity & Nursing — If you are pregnant or nursing, you may prefer to check with your healthcare provider before use.
Dry or Itchy Patches — Keep the rest of your routine well moisturized, and use it less often — or stop — if you notice tightness or itching.
Cosmetic strength limits for Centella Derivatives (Cica) where you live#
| Region | Maximum strength |
|---|---|
| United States | No explicit cap |
| Canada | No explicit cap |
| European Union | No explicit cap |
| Great Britain | No explicit cap |
No cosmetic regulator in these four markets sets a maximum strength for centella derivatives (cica). That is a limit on the rules, not a signal to use more: how much goes into a product is the formulator's decision.
Products with Centella Derivatives (Cica)#
We may earn a small commission when you buy through these links.
Madecassoside soothing serum · 4
Madecassoside soothing cream · 6
SKIN1004Madagascar Centella Teca Cream - 75ml$15.00
SKIN1004Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Teca Firming Cream - 50ml$15.75
A'PIEUMadecassoside Cica Gel 2X - 50ml$19.80
A'PIEUMadecassoside Tetrasome Cica Cream - 120ml$18.40
FRANKLYMadecassoside & Allantoin Cream - 30ml$13.90
make p:remInteca Soothing Cream - 80ml$25.60Common questions about Centella Derivatives (Cica)#
When should you apply Centella Derivatives (Cica)?
- Morning or evening, or both. It is one of the gentlest things on this list and needs no building up.
Which form of Centella Derivatives (Cica) should you use?
- Madecassoside soothing serum — before moisturizer, morning or evening, daily. Madecassoside soothing cream — as your moisturizer, morning or evening, daily.
How often can you use Centella Derivatives (Cica)?
- Daily.
Where do you apply Centella Derivatives (Cica)?
- All over the face. Keep it away from your eyes and lips.
Does Centella Derivatives (Cica) make skin more sensitive to the sun?
- No. Centella Derivatives (Cica) is not flagged as increasing sun sensitivity.
What should you not use with Centella Derivatives (Cica)?
- Nothing flagged. None of the ingredients this wiki covers needs to be kept apart from Centella Derivatives (Cica) — check the label of anything not covered here.
Who should avoid Centella Derivatives (Cica)?
- Go slowly with Maternity & Nursing and Dry or Itchy Patches.
Is there a cosmetic limit for Centella Derivatives (Cica)?
- No. No cosmetic regulator in the United States, Canada, the European Union or Great Britain sets a maximum strength for it. That is a limit on the rules, not a signal to use more.
Related ingredients#
How we check this#
Everything on this page traces to the sources listed below — regulators' own publications and published studies. Where the evidence does not answer a question, it is left unanswered.
Our review is AI-assisted and is not a named expert's opinion. Last reviewed August 7, 2026.
Think something here is out of date or wrong? Email us at wiki@skinintelligence.ai with your reasoning and where you read it. We read what people send, and we update the page when the sources support it.
Regulators and official bodies · 8
- S1EMA Committee on Herbal Medicinal Products. European Union herbal monograph on Centella asiatica (L.) Urb., herba, Revision 1. EMA/HMPC/489142/2020, 30 March 2022.
- S2EMA Committee on Herbal Medicinal Products. Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urb., herba, Revision 1. EMA/HMPC/489140/2020, 30 March 2022.
- S3AEMPS. Ficha técnica — Blastoestimulina 20 mg/g polvo cutáneo (nº registro 35908), Almirall S.A. CIMA. The titrated preparation: 7.2–8 mg asiaticoside/g + 8.6–12 mg triterpene genins/g, DER 21.3:1..
- S4AEMPS. Ficha técnica — Blastoestimulina 10 mg/g pomada (nº registro 86442), Almirall S.A. CIMA.
- S5Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. Safety Assessment of Centella asiatica-derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics, Final Report, 10 July 2015. Report prepared by Wilbur Johnson Jr. Covers nine extract/cell-culture ingredients only — not the isolated triterpenes..
- S18Health Canada. Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist: Prohibited and Restricted Ingredients. Retrieved 2026-08-03 — zero matches for centella / asiaticoside / madecassoside.
- S19Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annexes II, III, IV, V and VI, as retained in Great Britain (legislation.gov.uk). Retrieved 2026-08-03 — zero matches for centella / asiaticoside / madecassoside / Hydrocotyle across all five annexes.
- S2021 CFR Part 700 (General), Subparts A–B, full text retrieved from eCFR 2026-08-03 — zero matches for centella / asiaticoside / madecassoside.
Studies and references · 21
- S6Johnson W Jr, Bergfeld WF, Belsito DV, Hill RA, Klaassen CD, Liebler DC, Marks JG Jr, Shank RC, Slaga TJ, Snyder PW, Gill LJ, Heldreth B. Safety Assessment of Centella asiatica-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics. Int J Toxicol 2023 Jun;42(1_suppl):5S-22S. PMID 36812692. DOI 10.1177/10915818231158272.
- S7Hausen BM. Centella asiatica (Indian pennywort), an effective therapeutic but a weak sensitizer. Contact Dermatitis 1993 Oct;29(4):175-9. PMID 8281778.
- S8Eun HC, Lee AY. Contact dermatitis due to madecassol. Contact Dermatitis 1985 Nov;13(5):310-3. PMID 2936544.
- S9Gomes J, Pereira T, Vilarinho C, Duarte Mda L, Brito C. Contact dermatitis due to Centella asiatica. Contact Dermatitis 2010 Jan;62(1):54-5. PMID 20136880.
- S10Corazza M, Borghi A, Gallo R, Schena D, Pigatto P, Lauriola MM, Guarneri F, Stingeni L, Vincenzi C, Foti C, Virgili A. Topical botanically derived products: use, skin reactions, and usefulness of patch tests. A multicentre Italian study. Contact Dermatitis 2014 Feb;70(2):90-7. PMID 23909860.
- S11Lee J, Jung E, Lee H, Seo Y, Koh J, Park D. Evaluation of the effects of a preparation containing asiaticoside on periocular wrinkles of human volunteers. Int J Cosmet Sci 2008 Jun;30(3):167-73. PMID 18452433. Asiaticoside concentration is not stated in the retrievable record..
- S12Haftek M, Mac-Mary S, Le Bitoux MA, Creidi P, Seité S, Rougier A, Humbert P. Clinical, biometric and structural evaluation of the long-term effects of a topical treatment with ascorbic acid and madecassoside in photoaged human skin. Exp Dermatol 2008 Nov;17(11):946-52. PMID 18503551. Combination arm (5% vitamin C + 0.1% madecassoside); no madecassoside-alone arm reported..
- S13Damkerngsuntorn W, Rerknimitr P, Panchaprateep R, Tangkijngamvong N, Kumtornrut C, Kerr SJ, Asawanonda P, Tantisira MH, Khemawoot P. The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial. J Altern Complement Med 2020 Jun;26(6):529-536. PMID 32310680.
- S14Lueangarun S, Srituravanit A, Tempark T. Efficacy and safety of moisturizer containing 5% panthenol, madecassoside, and copper-zinc-manganese versus 0.02% triamcinolone acetonide cream… J Cosmet Dermatol 2019 Dec;18(6):1751-1757. PMID 30945430.
- S15Kongkaew C, Meesomperm P, Scholfield CN, Chaiwiang N, Waranuch N. Efficacy and Safety of Centella Asiatica (L.) Urb. on Wrinkles: A Systematic Review of Published Data and Network Meta-Analysis. J Cosmet Sci 2020 Nov-Dec;71(6):439-454. PMID 33413787.
- S16Amici JM, Le Dantec G, Demessant AL, Queille-Roussel C, Babled MP, Cathelineau AC, Danoy A, Trevisan S, Haedersdal M. A Dermocosmetic Balm Containing Vitamin B5, Madecassoside, and a Prebiotic Complex Significantly Improves Post Fractionated CO2 Laser Downtime Versus a Repairing Skin Care… J Cosmet Dermatol 2025 Jan;24(1):e16610. PMID 39361947.
- S17Özkaya E, Toprak İD. Allergic contact dermatitis from Centella asiatica extract and fragrance allergens: Report of two patients from Turkey. Contact Dermatitis 2024 Jul;91(1):85-87. PMID 38567908.
- S21Bandopadhyay S, Mandal S, Ghorai M, Jha NK, Kumar M, Radha, Ghosh A, Proćków J, Pérez de la Lastra JM, Dey A. Therapeutic properties and pharmacological activities of asiaticoside and madecassoside: A review. J Cell Mol Med 2023 Mar;27(5):593-608. PMID 36756687.
- S22Paolino D, Cosco D, Cilurzo F, Trapasso E, Morittu VM, Celia C, Fresta M. Improved in vitro and in vivo collagen biosynthesis by asiaticoside-loaded ultradeformable vesicles. J Control Release 2012 Aug 20;162(1):143-51. PMID 22698941.
- S23da Rocha PBR, Souza BDS, Andrade LM, Marreto RN, Lima EM, Taveira SF. Development of a High-Performance Liquid Chromatographic Method for Asiaticoside Quantification in Different Skin Layers after Topical Application of a Centella asiatica Extract. Planta Med 2017 Dec;83(18):1431-1437. PMID 28651288.
- S24Oh CS, Lee JY. Contact allergy to various ingredients of topical medicaments. Contact Dermatitis 2003 Jul;49(1):49-50. PMID 14641130.
- S25Santucci B, Picardo M, Cristaudo A. Contact dermatitis due to Centelase. Contact Dermatitis 1985 Jul;13(1):39. PMID 2931243. — and Vena GA, Angelini G. Contact allergy to Centelase. Contact Dermatitis 1986 Aug;15(2):108-9. PMID 2946520.
- S26Wang L, Zhang Y, Chen L, Yuan D, Feng X, Zheng J, Li X, Yuan C. A two-center randomized controlled trial of a repairing mask as an adjunctive treatment for mild to moderate rosacea. J Cosmet Dermatol 2024 Oct;23(10):3281-3286. PMID 38831627. Whole-extract branded mask — evidence for code 2.3, cited here only to mark the boundary..
- S27Sun J, Zhang D, Wang D, Li S, Lu Y, Ren L, Wang S, Liu Y, Zhang Z, Han S, Wan H, Wu Y, Lu Q, Huang Y, Li N, Oto T, Ye L, Li D, Jiang N. Madecassoside-functionalized platinum-based liposomes for sensitive skin… Colloids Surf B Biointerfaces 2026 Mar;259:115299. PMID 41273894. In vitro and molecular-docking only — not tolerability evidence..
- S28Su Z, Zheng Y, Yi J, Lai W, Ye C. The Effectiveness and Safety of a Skin Care Product With Centella asiatica Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, and Panthenol in Subjects With Sensitive Skin: A Prospective, Observational Study. J Cosmet Dermatol 2025 Jul;24(7):e70324. PMID 40682399. Leaf extract — code 2.3..
- S29Guo Y, Yang X, Tang L, Liang T, Xiao R, Liu Q. Validation of Madecassoside Synergy Significantly Enhanced Cryptotanshinone's Therapeutic Efficacy Against Acne Vulgaris. Bioengineering (Basel) 2025 Aug 29;12(9). PMID 41007180. In vitro, zebrafish and rat models only..
