Ingredient guide · Plain English
Skincare wiki.
What each ingredient does, how to use it, and the cosmetic limits where you live.
64 ingredients8 concerns2,427 sources cited748 from regulators
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64 of 64 ingredients shown
New here? Start with Niacinamide, Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid), Salicylic Acid (BHA) or Ceramides.
Hydration
CeramidesThe lipids skin makes for itself, topped back up on the surface — it is what keeps skin from feeling tight, dry and rough.Morning or evening · Daily · 42 sourcesEctoinA water-holding molecule from bacteria that survive in salty, dry places — on skin it keeps the surface hydrated, so it looks less dry and feels less tight.Morning or evening · Daily · 22 sourcesEnzyme ExfoliantsPlant enzymes that loosen the dull, flaky-looking cells on the surface so they lift away, without the low pH an acid exfoliant needs.Varies by form · 26 sourcesFerments / ProbioticsThe liquid left behind when yeast or bacteria ferment — the organisms are gone by the time it reaches a bottle, and what remains helps skin hold moisture.Morning or evening · Daily · 39 sourcesGlycerinA hydrating ingredient that holds water at the skin's surface, so skin looks plumper and feels softer.Morning or evening · Daily · 39 sourcesGrape WaterThe watery distillate of grapes, used in the water phase of toners and mists — a carrier ingredient rather than an active, and not the same thing as grape seed extract.Morning or evening · Daily · 24 sourcesHyaluronic AcidA humectant that holds water in the skin's surface layers, so skin looks plumper and feels more comfortable through the day.Morning or evening · Daily · 33 sourcesPadina pavonicaA small fan-shaped brown seaweed from Mediterranean and Atlantic shores, used in leave-on products as an antioxidant, for the look of smooth, supple skin.Morning or evening · Daily · 21 sourcesPanthenol (B5)A gentle, soothing hydrator — it holds water in the skin's surface and helps skin feel comfortable.Morning or evening · Daily · 40 sourcesPetrolatumThe plainest occlusive there is — it slows the water leaving skin, so dry, tight, flaky-looking skin looks smoother and stays comfortable for longer.Morning or evening · Daily · 36 sourcesPHA (Polyhydroxy Acid)A gentle exfoliating acid that lifts away dull surface build-up while holding water at the surface, so skin looks smoother without looking stripped.Morning or evening · Up to daily · 35 sourcesPlant oils and buttersThe oils and butters pressed from seeds, nuts and fruit — shea, argan, coconut, jojoba and the rest — that soften the skin's surface and slow the water it loses, for a smoother, more supple feel.Morning or evening · Daily · 20 sourcesPolyglutamic AcidA water-holding molecule made by fermenting soybeans — it is the sticky part of natto — used in leave-on products to help skin look and feel hydrated.Morning or evening · Daily · 40 sourcesRice Bran WaterThe watery distillate and the extract of rice bran, the layer milled off brown rice — used in toners, essences and creams, with the hydration and smoothness evidence sitting on the extract.Morning or evening · Daily · 31 sourcesSea MossThe water-binding extract of a red seaweed better known as a food supplement — on skin it holds moisture at the surface and leaves a light, soft film, so skin looks and feels more hydrated.Morning or evening · Daily · 39 sourcesSqualaneA light, stable oil that skin already makes a little of for itself — it softens the surface and leaves skin looking smoother and more supple.Morning or evening · Daily · 21 sourcesTurmericThe root of a ginger-family plant, used in leave-on products as an antioxidant — and one that leaves a visible yellow tint behind.Evening · Daily · 59 sourcesUreaSkin makes urea of its own, and adding more of it holds water in the surface layers — so dry, rough-looking areas look smoother and feel softer.Morning or evening · Daily · 38 sourcesVitamin EAn oil-soluble antioxidant that doubles as a softening, conditioning oil — it tops up skin’s own antioxidant reserve and leaves skin looking smoother.Morning or evening · Daily · 36 sources
Redness
AllantoinA quietly reliable calming ingredient — it softens the look of dry, rough patches and takes the edge off the appearance of redness.Morning or evening · Daily · 19 sourcesAloeThe gel from the aloe vera leaf — a lightweight hydrator that helps skin feel comfortable and calms the look of redness.Morning or evening · Daily · 46 sourcesAzelaic AcidA multi-tasker that works on the look of redness, dark marks and breakout-prone skin at the same time.Morning or evening · Daily · 56 sourcesAzuleneThe deep blue compound that gives calming creams their color, used to soften the look of redness.Evening · Daily · 28 sourcesBeta-GlucanA polysaccharide drawn from oats, yeast or mushrooms that forms a light moisture-holding film on the surface of the skin and calms the look of redness.Morning or evening · Daily · 30 sourcesBisabololThe calming part of chamomile, on its own — it softens the look of redness, and over weeks helps even out tone.Morning or evening · Daily · 29 sourcesCentella AsiaticaA botanical extract — often sold as cica — that calms the look of redness and holds moisture in the skin's surface.Morning or evening · Daily · 34 sourcesCentella Derivatives (Cica)Soothing molecules purified out of the centella plant — madecassoside and its relatives — used to calm the look of redness in skin that has had a rough time.Morning or evening · Daily · 29 sourcesOat ExtractFinely milled whole oat that helps skin look calmer and less red, and feel soft and comfortable.Morning or evening · Daily · 38 sourcesPurslaneA leafy plant eaten as a vegetable across much of the world, used in leave-on skincare as a conditioning ingredient that helps skin feel comfortable and look less flushed.Morning or evening · Daily · 37 sourcesWitch HazelThe distilled water of a North American shrub, a toner staple for its fresh feel — it can help calm the look of redness, though the effect is modest and depends on the formula around it.Morning or evening · Daily · 59 sources
Breakouts
Green Tea ExtractA plant antioxidant that helps breakout-prone skin look clearer and calmer, and takes some of the shine off through the day.Morning or evening · Daily · 31 sourcesKaolin clayA soft white clay used in rinse-off masks to take up excess surface oil, for a matte finish and a less shiny look.Morning or evening · Daily · 24 sourcesLHAAn oil-loving relative of salicylic acid that sinks in slowly, so it clears away surface build-up a little at a time rather than all at once.Morning or evening · Up to daily · 31 sourcesMandelic Acid (AHA)An AHA with a bigger molecule than glycolic acid — it works more gradually on the surface, loosening dull build-up for an even-looking finish.Evening · 3× a week to daily · SPF next morning · 42 sourcesPimple PatchesA small sticker worn over one spot — it covers the blemish and keeps your hands off it, so the spot looks flatter and less red while it settles.Morning or evening · Daily · 30 sourcesSalicylic Acid (BHA)An oil-soluble exfoliating acid, where the AHAs are water-soluble — which is why it suits the look of pores and congestion.Morning or evening · Varies by form · 66 sourcesZinc OxideA fine white mineral that stays on the surface of the skin rather than sinking in, leaving a soft, slightly opaque, matte finish.Morning · Daily · 52 sourcesZinc PCAA gentle, water-soluble ingredient pairing the mineral zinc with PCA, a moisture-binding component skin makes naturally, for a clearer-looking complexion.Morning or evening · Daily · 32 sources
Pigmentation
4-ButylresorcinolA targeted brightening ingredient that helps stubborn dark spots and uneven patches look lighter, for a more even-looking complexion.Morning or evening · Daily · 32 sourcesAlpha ArbutinA gentle brightening ingredient that helps dark spots and uneven patches look lighter, for a more even-looking complexion.Morning or evening · Daily · 29 sourcesCysteamineA brightening ingredient used on stubborn dark spots and age spots, to help the skin look more even in tone.Evening · Daily · 44 sourcesGlutathioneA small molecule of three amino acids that the body makes for itself, used in leave-on products to help areas of darker pigment look more even.Morning or evening · Daily · 55 sourcesGlycolic Acid (AHA)The smallest of the alpha-hydroxy acids — it loosens dull surface buildup at the outermost layer, softening the look of uneven tone, rough texture and fine lines.Evening · 3× a week to daily · SPF next morning · 33 sourcesKojic AcidA brightening ingredient from fungal fermentation that helps dark spots and uneven patches look lighter over time.Evening · Daily · 35 sourcesLicorice Root ExtractA gentle plant extract that helps dark spots and uneven patches look lighter, while calming the look of redness at the same time.Morning or evening · Daily · 51 sourcesNAG (N-Acetyl Glucosamine)A gentle amino sugar that helps dark spots and uneven patches look less noticeable, working a different way from most brightening ingredients.Morning or evening · Daily · 27 sourcesResveratrolA plant antioxidant from grapes, berries and Japanese knotweed that helps uneven-looking skin tone look more even over time.Morning or evening · Daily · 51 sourcesSaffronThe stigma and flower of the saffron crocus, used in leave-on products as an antioxidant that helps areas of darker pigment look more even.Morning or evening · Daily · 39 sourcesTranexamic AcidA gentle brightening ingredient that helps stubborn dark spots and post-blemish marks look lighter, for a more even-looking complexion.Morning or evening · Daily · 43 sourcesVitamin C (L-Ascorbic Acid)The pure form of vitamin C, an antioxidant that helps dark spots look lighter, tone look more even, and skin look firmer and smoother.Morning · Daily · 38 sourcesVitamin C DerivativesGentler, more stable forms of vitamin C that help skin look brighter and tone more even, with antioxidant support against everyday environmental stress.Morning or evening · Daily · 49 sources
Pores
Wrinkles
BakuchiolA plant-derived active that works on the look of fine lines and wrinkles, with a gentle feel that suits skin which finds retinol uncomfortable.Morning or evening · Daily · 29 sourcesCoQ10An antioxidant your skin already makes, topped up on the surface to help it hold its own against environmental stress and soften the look of fine lines.Morning or evening · Daily · 33 sourcesFerulic AcidA plant antioxidant from rice bran and seeds, best known for keeping vitamin C and vitamin E stable in the same bottle, and used as a main ingredient for its own antioxidant support.Morning or evening · Daily · 72 sourcesLactic Acid (AHA)A classic AHA that smooths the look of surface texture — and because lactate is part of skin’s own moisture, it holds water at the surface as it works.Evening · 3× a week to daily · SPF next morning · 57 sourcesRetinaldehydeA form of vitamin A, printed on labels as retinal, used in evening skincare on the look of fine lines and uneven texture. Skin converts it in a single step, and it is an active that rewards easing in slowly.Evening · 3× a week to daily · SPF next morning · 61 sourcesRetinolA vitamin A derivative that works on the look of fine lines and uneven texture. It is an active that rewards easing in slowly.Evening · 3× a week to daily · SPF next morning · 42 sources
Firmness
Copper PeptidesA copper-carrying form of a small skin peptide, used in leave-on serums to help skin look firmer and fine lines look softer.Morning or evening · Daily · 24 sourcesPDRNA DNA fragment purified from salmon or trout, used in leave-on serums to help skin look firmer and smoother — most of all around the eyes.Morning or evening · Daily · 43 sourcesPeptidesShort chains of amino acids used in firming skincare, to help skin look firmer and fine lines look softer.Morning or evening · Daily · 41 sources
Eye Area
CaffeineA naturally occurring plant compound used in eye products to help the under-eye area look brighter and more refreshed.Morning or evening · Daily · 29 sourcesPeptides (Eye Area)Short chains of amino acids in an eye product, used to soften the look of fine lines around the eyes and help the skin there look smoother.Morning or evening · Daily · 34 sourcesRetinol (Eye Area)Retinol formulated for the skin around the eyes, where it works on the look of fine lines, crow's feet and under-eye darkness.Evening · 2× a week to daily · SPF next morning · 42 sources
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